Saturday, August 14, 2004

Indonesia Travelogue – Part V

My dear Mimi & Jhum,

Sudipto brought Mimi’s mail in the evening on Monday I am very sorry indeed to learn that Mrs. Debroy is no more. May her soul rest in peace!

From Jogjakarta air port we drove about 50 miles directly to Barobudur the largest Buddhist Stupa any where in the world There are around 150 (very steep) steps up split between a few floors where Buddha’s life and attainment of nirvana are engraved on the outer wall of three/four floors. Beyond that level there is one huge Stupa. Stairs have not been built for going on to that. ‘Those attaining nirvana’ it is said are expected to go over there. There are 72 smaller stupas of same design around the lower levels with statues of Buddha inside each. It is believed that you may touch the Lord’s feet inside and pray; one wish only will be fulfilled. Don’t ask for more. This place was excavated, from under volcanic ash from nearby live volcano, Merapi, by the Dutch (?) some time back Last year there had been a minor eruption here and a lot of people came to see that; but Barabudur got totally covered by a major eruption in 1066 AD.

In the afternoon we went to a Hindu temple complex’ called, Prambanan. Here you come across three main temples one each for Bramha, Vishnu, and Maheshwara; and some more for their vahanas, E.g., Nandi, and some others. The steps here also are steep, and there are four deities in each main temple (e.g. Durga, Ganesh and Kartik, besides Shiva.) facing north, south, east, and west; and to see them one has to climb up separate set of stairs from the ground. Around these temples Entire Ramayana and Mahabharata have been engraved. Entry tax to these two shrines for foreigners is @ $10. It may not be prohibitive for Europeans, who vastly out number the locals among visitors.

In another section of this temple complex in an open theatre we have seen Ramayana Ballet. It is an impressive two-hour programme, starting with Sita’s (called Sinta here) Sayamvhar and endind with Sita’s agni-pariksha. Dances resemble partly Manipuri and partly Katha Kali. The large gallery was filled by Europeans except for about 20% with men like us and locals, because tickets are expensive- we bought @ INR 500/- tickets which was not the costliest.

We rode a ‘bechak (cycle riksha), in which driver’s seat is in the rear.

Thus far today.

BABA

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