Saturday, August 20, 2005

China Travelogue – Part III

My dear Mimi & Jhum,

Ming Tomb: About 50 km. away you enter the graveyard with the longest arching entrance gate in China. Most of the Ming emperors (with their thrones and golden / jade crowns, etc.), their queens and concubines were buried here in underground palaces.

The Great Wall –3rd most popular wonder of the world: the wall was constructed/ reconstructed since 5th century B.C. and extended, over 10,000 km. up to 1644 A.D. during Ming dynasty; however, renovation work is continuing. Certain parts located 50 to 65 km. north of Beijing are popular tourist destinations. We climbed up to the base in chair car and walked for about 2 hours up the stairs on the wall to the second tallest watch tower. It will remain a memorable experience in our mind.

By overnight ‘z’ train (perhaps without any scheduled stopover during eleven and half hours journey) we reached Xi’-An on 15th, 1200 k.m. south/south west of Beijing on the historic ‘silk route’, the seat of some of the earlier Chinese dynasties. Now this city is a provincial capital only, but vibrant and clean with necessary modern facilities. Hu’en-sung, the renowned traveler to and fro India, lived after his return here in a Buddhist Pagoda. Pictures depicting life of Hu’en-sung as well as Buddha adore the walls of this historic monastery.

About 60 km. off Xi-An has the novel ‘Terracotta Army’ been dug out. There are about four thousand life size clay solders in arms and uniform, horses, chariots, etc. The site is covered with three large sheds; and work is going on and damaged ones are being restored. A large mound lying nearby is said to be the mausoleum of the then king who mysteriously believed that terracotta army would protect his mausoleum. But within a few years of his demise, his dynasty was overthrown and the terracotta army was partially damaged/destroyed.

From Xi-An we traveled about one thousand km. north/north west by a slower train to Datong located near Mongolian border, to see some exquisite architectural works of Buddhist era. The most remarkable one is the set of forty-five caves at ‘Yundong’, the outer ones are not important some of which were left incomplete. But caves five to twenty are wonderful. They contain very large single magnificent statues of Buddha to clusters of small ones carved out from the hills, decorated in many styles and colourfully painted. The largest statue of Buddha, seventeen meters in height, is in cave no. five. There are statues of some Hindu deities, e.g. Shiva, Vishnu, Kartikeya, etc. also in 7th and 8th caves.

Wooden Pagoda: This eight story shrine built in 16th century without any metallic nut& bolt or else, with beautiful carvings all around, is a live monastery and accessible up to the top.
Hanging Monastery (40 km. from Datong): From the alongside road, any one looking up will wonder how could this mainly wooden structure be affixed so high up in the mountain. This one also is carved and painted in the Buddhist tradition.

We returned via Beijing on the 20th July. Before that on the last evening we attended an acrobatic show, very gracefully performed to perfection by a large number of young boys and girls; it was indeed a thoroughly enjoyable evening.

BABA

Tuesday, August 16, 2005

China Travelogue – Part II

My dear Mimi & Jhum,

Beijing is a 600-year-old city with a number of wonderful sites of Chinese history and art protected through the turmoil due to dynasties and the throes of revolution. We were in time constrained to select some heritage sites in and around Beijing, which we could cover in first four days.

Temple of heaven’ built around 1400 AD during Ming rule with rows of cypress trees (4000 nos.) neatly lining up the garden, Halls of prayer to Gods of Harvest etc. (as per the majority’s religion, Daoism, there are Gods and Goddesses for rain, long life, etc.,). Imperial vault of Heaven surrounded with ‘echo’ wall, Heavenly central store, etc.

‘Be Hai’ – an 800-year-old huge park with a large man made lake within, crowned by a white pagoda. Marco Polo was entertained here by Kublai Khan.

Summer Palace: rebuilt between 1749 and –’64 by emperor Quinlong; comprising of beautifully sculpted/painted/decorated, gates, pavilions, bronze dragon and phoenix, etc. There is a huge lake within and a 36 meter beautiful white and black marble boat at one end thereof still serving as the jetty for ferry and cruise on ‘dragon’ boat, speed boat, etc. The most impressive is the 2550 ft. Corridor along the lake with some 10000 colorfully painted panels on the ceiling and beams depicting Chinese history, myth, etc.

‘Forbidden city’: since 1420 till 1924 the residence and court of five dynasties including ‘Ming’ and ‘Manchu’ (after the Yuan dynasty which include Chengis Khan and his grand son Kublai Khan), comprising of a number of palaces and pavilions built one after another leaving a lot a space in between as courtyards, and surrounded by buildings for various activity. At the entrance “Gate of Heaven” a portrait of Chairman Mao has been put up (why, I do not know?).

Across the road from there is the largest park on earth, Tiananmen Square (99 acres), built in the last century and enlarged by Mao Zedong to be primary public meeting place here. On the side of this square is ‘ Mao’ Mausoleum’, which include his statue on “throne”, a chamber where Mao lies in state, etc.

To be continued…

BABA

Thursday, August 11, 2005

China Travelogue – Part I

Dear Mimi & Jhum,

I have come to Jakarta on 20th last month after traveling in parts of China for ten days. However small may be the part of China we visited, I think today the country is open and safe; people appear to be happy, healthy and hopeful. Roads in (600 year old) Beijing and else where we visited are much wider than ours and well illuminated; Beijing has 7 or 8 ‘ring’ roads with many lanes (separate ones for cycle in some), added with vast network of flyovers and subways; and vacuum cleaner are used. Cycles are popular here; motorcycles are not. Beijing public transport include three ‘metro’ routes, bus and trolley bus, enough A/C taxis, and even a very few four seated motor cycle cabs. There are three sets of ‘metros’.

China has several categories of train (the best, ‘Z’ class, have TV and head phone also for each berth). All trains are better maintained than ours, and slippers are provided in all ‘sleeper’ compartments. Bags and baggage are X-rayed at entrance, passengers only are allowed inside, and so in absence of vendors and porters the platforms are clean.

Chinese foods are sold the world over; but those served here (with chopstick without exception) are different. Mainly non-vegetarian, that too more pork and beef preparations are consumed. Diners pick up food from common bowls/plates with their chopsticks on to small quarter plates for each. Among the specialties we have tried is ‘Peking duck roast’ at a restaurant, renowned for serving this item since 1864, close to Tiananmen squire.

The Chinese have taken to western numerals; and men and women – old and young alike, all have changed over to western attire. Now English is being introduced at primary level in school. Mandarin, as you know, is the official language, but as many as five styles of calligraphy are being used since 213 B.C.

Chinese contribution to mankind are many; silk, tea, vase, umbrella, ice cream, are a few of those. They use Bronze since 1100 B. C. Interestingly, shoes need not be taken off at Daoist (Taoist) / Buddhist temples. Beijing is the place for shopping; but mind you, they love bargaining. Even in the ‘Friendship Stores’ and other Govt. promoted manufacturing centers showed during conducted tours, souvenirs can be bought at 40/50% of initially quoted prices. A pleasant experience may be mentioned here; whereas on returning from Daton, we were asked by a middleman to pay Yuan 80 as taxi hire charges from one of Beijing railway stations to hotel, the lady cab driver voluntarily reduced the charges to Yuan 50 only as she agreed that the distance was short.

To be continued…

BABA